A day in Cannes

Cannes: More Than the Red Carpet – A Journey Through History

When most people hear the word Cannes, they immediately think of the red carpet. Every year, the world's film stars, directors and celebrities descend on the French Riviera for the famous Cannes Film Festival, bringing with them flashbulbs, evening gowns, spectacular jewellery and more than a little glamour. But Cannes is much more than its film festival. Behind the luxury hotels, designer boutiques and yachts lies a much older town, with a history stretching back more than two thousand years. Its historic quarter, lively markets, old harbour and winding streets reveal a very different side of Cannes — one that is well worth discovering. And perhaps the best way to experience it is on foot. A walk through Cannes takes you from medieval streets and traditional Provençal markets to the famous Palais des Festivals and the palm-lined boulevard of La Croisette. Along the way, you discover two very different sides of the same city.

From Ancient Settlement to Riviera Icon

The story of Cannes begins long before the film cameras arrived. The origins of the town go back to antiquity, when the Ligurians established a settlement known as Aegitna. The Romans later occupied the area, and the settlement gradually developed around the hill now known as Le Suquet. The name Cannes evolved over the centuries. By the 10th century, the town was known as Canua, a name traditionally associated with the reeds that grew in the area. It is difficult to imagine this ancient landscape when standing today on La Croisette, surrounded by luxury boutiques and five-star hotels. But climb up into Le Suquet and the modern city suddenly seems very far away.

Le Suquet: The Historic Heart of Cannes

Le Suquet is the oldest part of Cannes and the perfect place to begin exploring the city. Built on the hill overlooking the Old Port, this picturesque neighbourhood is a maze of narrow, winding streets, colourful façades, little squares and stairways leading towards the summit. This is Cannes at its most authentic. The atmosphere is wonderfully different from the grand boulevards below. Instead of luxury fashion houses and enormous hotels, you find small restaurants, cafés and local shops tucked into the old streets. Take your time here. There is no need to follow a strict route. Wander through the little streets, look up at the traditional façades and turn down a side street simply because it looks interesting. Some of the loveliest corners of Le Suquet are the ones you discover almost by accident. It is also a wonderful neighbourhood for a leisurely lunch, with several restaurants offering traditional Provençal dishes and terraces overlooking the old streets.

Climb to the Top of the Hill

At the summit of Le Suquet stands the Église Notre-Dame d’Espérance, built between the 16th and 17th centuries, together with the remains of the medieval fortifications. The hill has been the strategic heart of Cannes for centuries. One of the most recognisable remnants of its medieval past is the square tower of the Castre Museum, dating from the 11th century. From the top, the reward is spectacular.Look down over the rooftops of the old town towards the Vieux Port, then across the Mediterranean to the Lérins Islands. On a clear day, the view stretches along the coastline towards the dramatic red rocks of the Estérel mountains. It is one of the finest panoramic viewpoints in Cannes — and a lovely reminder that this city existed long before the red carpet. If you have a little extra time, the Musée des Explorations du Monde, housed in the former medieval castle, is also worth visiting. Its collections include Mediterranean antiquities, musical instruments and objects from different cultures around the world.

Marché Forville: A Taste of Provençal Life

After exploring Le Suquet, make your way down to Marché Forville, Cannes' famous covered market. This is where the city feels particularly alive. The stalls are filled with colourful fruit and vegetables, flowers, aromatic herbs, cheeses, olives and local specialities. Depending on the season, you will also find an impressive selection of fresh fish and seafood. Forville is not simply somewhere to admire the colours and take photographs. It is part of everyday life in Cannes, where locals come to shop and catch up with friends. Come in the morning, when the market is at its liveliest, and allow yourself time to wander between the stalls. And if you are staying in a villa or apartment, it is almost impossible to resist buying something for lunch. A few tomatoes, some local cheese, fresh fruit and perhaps a bottle of rosé. Suddenly, you have the makings of a very good Riviera lunch.

From the Market to the Old Port

From Marché Forville, walk down towards the sea and you will arrive at the Vieux Port, the Old Port of Cannes. The atmosphere changes once again. Traditional fishing boats share the harbour with sailing yachts and enormous luxury vessels. It is a perfect illustration of Cannes itself: old and new, local and international, traditional and glamorous, all occupying the same waterfront. Take a moment to look back towards Le Suquet. From the harbour, the old town rises above you, crowned by its church and medieval tower. Then turn towards the Mediterranean. The harbour is also a wonderful place to pause for a coffee or an aperitif and watch the boats coming and going.

The Palais des Festivals: Enter the World of Cinema

From the Old Port, continue along the waterfront towards the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. This is where Cannes' modern international identity comes into full view. Every year, the Palais becomes the centre of attention during the Cannes Film Festival, when the international film industry gathers here and the famous red carpet becomes one of the most photographed stretches of carpet in the world. Even outside festival season, it is worth stopping for a photograph on the famous steps. Don't forget to look at the pavement around the Palais, either. Here you will find the Chemin des Étoiles, Cannes' own version of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, featuring the handprints and signatures of numerous international film personalities. You may not arrive wearing an evening gown, but nobody says you can't pose as though you are about to walk the red carpet.

La Croisette: The Glamorous Side of Cannes

From the Palais, the next part of the walk is perhaps the most famous of all.La Croisette. This legendary palm-lined boulevard follows the curve of Cannes' waterfront for around two kilometres, with the Mediterranean on one side and some of the city's most famous hotels, boutiques and restaurants on the other. This is the Cannes that most people picture. The grand hotels. The designer shops. The private beaches. The beautiful yachts offshore. Along the boulevard, you pass some of the most iconic hotels on the French Riviera, including the Carlton Cannes, Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic and JW Marriott Cannes. These establishments have hosted generations of film stars, celebrities and international visitors. But you don't have to spend a fortune to enjoy La Croisette. The promenade itself is free, and walking along the waterfront is one of the simplest pleasures in Cannes. Find a bench, watch the boats, look towards the Lérins Islands or simply enjoy the people-watching. There is almost always something happening.

Continue Towards Palm Beach

If you have the energy, continue along La Croisette towards Palm Beach, at the eastern end of the bay. The scenery gradually becomes a little less urban, and the view back towards Cannes is particularly beautiful. From here, you can appreciate the full sweep of the bay, with the city and its famous waterfront stretching out behind you. It makes a lovely end to the walk, especially later in the afternoon, when the light begins to soften over the Mediterranean. If you don't feel like walking the entire distance, you can use local transport or take the petit train touristique, which offers sightseeing tours around Cannes and is particularly popular with families.

Cannes: Two Cities in One

What makes Cannes so interesting is precisely this contrast. On one side, you have Le Suquet, with its medieval streets, old church and centuries of history. Then there is the market, where locals shop for fresh produce and Provençal specialities. The Old Port brings together traditional fishing boats and superyachts. The Palais represents the international world of cinema. And finally, La Croisette delivers all the glamour for which Cannes has become famous. You can experience all these different sides of the city in a single afternoon. And that is why Cannes is worth visiting even if you couldn't care less about the film festival.

Practical Tips for Exploring Cannes on Foot

A walking tour covering Le Suquet, Marché Forville, the Old Port, the Palais des Festivals and La Croisette is an enjoyable way to discover the city. A few suggestions to make the most of your visit:

• Allow around 3–4 hours for a relaxed walk, including stops for photographs, a coffee or lunch. Allow longer if you wish to visit the museum or explore the shops.
• Start in the morning, ideally with a visit to Marché Forville, when the market is at its liveliest.
• Wear comfortable shoes. Le Suquet has cobbled streets, steps and some uphill sections.
• Consider visiting outside the peak summer months. Spring and early autumn are particularly pleasant for exploring Cannes on foot.
• Check the market opening days before planning your visit, particularly if Marché Forville is one of your main reasons for going.

The route is flexible, so you can easily shorten it or extend your stay wherever you find something interesting.

Discover Cannes from Théoule-sur-Mer

For guests staying at Gaia's Villas in Théoule-sur-Mer, Cannes makes an especially easy and enjoyable day trip. The two destinations are close, but the contrast between them could hardly be greater. In Théoule, you wake up surrounded by the red rocks of the Estérel and the Mediterranean, with a much quieter village atmosphere. Then, within a short drive, you arrive in Cannes and find yourself surrounded by the energy of La Croisette, luxury boutiques, traditional markets and the international world of the French Riviera. My favourite way to experience Cannes is not to try to see everything. Start in Le Suquet. Walk down through the old streets to Marché Forville. Continue to the Vieux Port and the Palais des Festivals. Then follow La Croisette along the sea. Stop for a coffee or an aperitif somewhere along the waterfront. And eventually, when you've had enough of the glamour, head back to Théoule. Because one of the great luxuries of staying on this part of the French Riviera is being able to enjoy Cannes whenever you want — and then return to somewhere wonderfully peaceful. Cannes may be famous for its red carpet, but its real story begins much further back. And once you've walked from the medieval hill of Le Suquet to the glittering Croisette, you'll have discovered both sides of this fascinating Riviera city.